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My "re" build thread - Trick flow/turbo build

44K views 457 replies 26 participants last post by  97stanger97 
#1 ·
Going to start a build thread for the new motor build. At this point, got the engine pulled and going to start disassembly. I have already sold my blower setup, intercooler, blow off valve, and crank pulley. The plan is to go Trick Flow head, turbo cam, and 76mm turbo setup. Most likely will convert to E85 as well. I'll have a ton of questions and ask for input, so I'll just post everything in here. Hoping to start disassembly shortly!

Old setup:



Blower being taken off:





Motor pulled:











Hoping to start getting this thing broken down shortly. First step will be to get shortblock to machine shop just to go over everything, and at a minimum I will most likely swap to stainless steel piston rings. In a perfect world, that will be the only thing I end up changing with the short block. Currently have a '97 romeo block .20 over, Cobra crank, Manley 18cc Platinum Series pistons, Manley H-beam rods, and ARP 2000 hardware. My goals for this build is 750+rwhp through the auto. Any input/suggestions are welcome and I'll keep this thread updated with progress and any questions throughout the build so I'm not clogging up space. Just an fyi, I'm starting to list stuff that I will not be using in turbo build in the for sale section. I'll also be selling my MMR Stage 3 PI heads, custom grind blower cams, and Crower high lift spring setup. Would like to keep fully assembled!
 
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#271 ·
I've got nothing on it other than it looks nice and a lot of fast cars are using it. What info were you looking for?
I don't think there's a performance advantage with it just cosmetics and any issues working around the inlet tube if working on the car.
I'm not a fan of the looks of our 6061's and I keep thinking about designing something else but so far I haven't come up with a kewler design that is also a side mount b/c I don't like the inlet tube routing over the alt. on my car.

ks
 
#273 ·
Going to run a turbo guard and possibly pick up a good flowing K&N for when the time comes to do some comparison tests.



At this point, wire tuck is completely done and panels are ready to go. Have to call the body shop Monday night to see if I can schedule a day for drop off to get these things welded in and the engine bay painted. If it won't be a few weeks until I can drop it off I may just work on trying to get the new k member and a arms in while the car sits
 
#274 ·
For those of you who did battery relocation to your trunk...did you have to drop the fuel tank to mount the battery box to the floor? I started looking at it today and I don't see how it would be possible to mount this box without at least dropping and hanging the tank. The floor looks like its double reinforced and I would have no access to even get to the back of the bolt hole. Thanks
 
#276 ·
That makes sense. I was planning on just putting it where I used to have my trunk mount meth tank installed which is more towards the passenger side rear corner. Figured could just bolt the box down and at least start to run the lines. Started mocking it up and when looking underneath it seems like the tank will at least need to be dropped on the passenger side and probably filler neck removed for any sort of access to get to the backside of the bolt holding down the box.
 
#281 ·
Got her all cleaned up, and finally dropping off at the shop Wednesday night to get scott rod panels welded in, and a good amount of paint work done. Changing it up on the hood, getting mirrors painted black, and getting a few other things touched up. Once I get it back from body shop motor is ready to go in! She cleans up well for 20 years old! Disregard the sweet wheels, didn't want to leave my bigs/littles on while it was at the shop lol







 
#282 ·
Changed the drop off to Sunday but I'll be sure to post up once I get her back and how it all turned out. Once I get it back, motor's going in and next thing I need to start to figure out is radiator/shroud/expansion tank setup. Going to need to see how much room I have with turbo mounted. Got a question....found a radiator for my year that is sold with the end tank built in, similar to the 5.0 setups. If I went with a radiator with the end tank/filler neck built in, could I just completely ditch the expansion tank and just run this as the overflow?

https://www.dewitts.com/collections...-mustang-aluminum-radiator?variant=964625717#
 
#284 ·
So not to go off topic...but what are your guys thoughts? On my last build I had a COP conversion done with the red monster harness and brand new Ford COP's. I did have a KB BAS added to it, but didn't have any spark issues up to 600rwhp and about 6400 RPM's. On my new build, I'm probably going to be spinning upwards of 7,000 and shooting for 800rwhp at about 25psi...and I'm being told no way to go back to Ford OEM coil packs and spark plugs. What are your guys thoughts about that? I don't think I'm ready to do a complete stand alone yet, so this is something I'll have to address. If Ford OEM packs & wires are the way to go for that high of boost and power, are there any options to relocate them? I really don't have the room up front now with all this turbo stuff going on. Any input would be appreciated.
 
#285 ·
With my stock setup the factory coils were fine past 700hp and I can't see that they would have been a problem above that. I've even read to keep it all stock. I say leave it alone. If our combos are as close as they appear you won't be spinning 7k. On my car we made all those dyno pulls shutting it down at 6200.

ks
 
#286 ·
My car is a 97 and I did a COP conversion, so I'm still waste spark. That's the problem I read about...

What was holding back pulling higher than 6200? Hell I was running super small blower cams in my last build and pulled it to 6400
 
#299 ·
Finally got her home, and got her all cleaned up today. Unfortunately I have to travel for work so I probably won't have the motor in for another week or 2, but just nice having the car back home









 
#301 ·
I considered going forward facing but with a front center mounted turbo it is just really hard with clearance and the cost to benefit really wasn't worth it to me. I'll have to cut a single circle in the passenger inner apron and run my intercooler to throttle body pipe that way like normal, but that should be it. Going to have my cold side custom made so its all one piece aluminum instead of couplers everywhere
 
#303 ·
I just went with a Moroso filler neck, and than -16an fittings and hose. The radiator I'm getting I'll have the top hose tube cut off and I have a -16an threaded male fitting. I'm only going to run AN upper hose more or less so I can route it the way I want up and around/over the turbo
 
#305 ·
Mind posting any pics of your setup? I still always go back and forth between ditching my 6061 plenum and going with a Sullivan forward facing, but between the plenum, new rails, new throttle body, new throttle linkage setup, alternator clearance issues...I've just always decided against it for the little to no gains. That's exactly what my plan is, a nice clean hole with a black trim ring to clean it up
 
#306 ·
Sure thing, I'll post them tonight after work, I bought the eddy intake as soon as it was available. At that time there weren't a lot of options available for making the complete system work so I used their high rise elbow to clear fuel lines and alternator. I ended up using an accufab 90mm tb and had to repin tps and such. I just recently had it powdercoated and even though I know there are better systems out there, it looks cool and works fine for me!
 
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