went to sound performance had my car tuned they did a great job.the iac will not work we work on it for 2 hours no settings changed anything.after you start the car it will go wide open I run the eec adapter from diy . my ? is what wires on the adapter go to the iac.
when I got my ms I got a tune from a guy on yellobullet .in output port settings under extended he had pm2- fidle and pm6- iac highlighted fidle set to coolant threshold 180 trigger value 1 and iac set to map threshold set to 121 is this why my iac is all the way open whan the car get warm
There's a good chance that is why, yes. Disable the IAC one for now.
You're not using the fidle stuff (stepper-motor idle control) for your idle at least, so that one shouldn't be the cause. It might be used for turning on fans when the engine reaches temp, especially with a trigger temp of 180. So it's likely best to leave that one alone for now, until you can verify if it's actually doing something useful or not.
Thank you I just want to say sorry for doubting ms now that I know what it's about it's a nice standalone and thanks to everyone that has helped me the car put down 606 hp 12psi and 788hp on 20psi now if I get the iac all worked out but thanks again
I still cant get the iac to work if I do a idle valve test it don't move if I check it with volt metter it has 10.3 volts is there something in outports I need to do
For what you are trying to do, there is nothing in output ports that is used for your PWM IAC. Those are for auxiliary purposes only, like if you were re-purposing IAC control for nitrous control instead.
If you have any settings in output ports enabled for PM2, disable them.
PT6 and PT7 are a different kind of idle output for a stepper motor. Settings for those you can leave alone.
I still need answers to the questions in the 2nd post, it's hard to help without that info.
Type it out or post a screenshot. Feel free to post a screenshot of your output port settings too if you want them looked at.
Okay, so the problem is that your idle hangs too high, is that right? IF so, what RPM is it hanging at? Is the "CL Idle" box at the bottom of the gauge cluster in TunerStuido lit when this happens or not?
no the iac will not do nothing if I take it off and look at it I cant get it to do nothing that the problem its all wired right if I put a volt meter on the pos/neg I get 10.3 no matter what I do with settings or idle valve test
It won't do anything just looking at it and changing values in TS.
The Ford valves 'rest' in the fully open position. When they're installed, engine vacuum pulls it closed. Then when you provide a signal, it fights against that vacuum to maintain some degree of open. So if it's already sitting open, activating the motor doesn't change anything. You need it to close the valve first.
Sometimes they get all jammed up with crap and vacuum won't pull it closed like it should, or the motor can't open it up correctly. Sometimes cleaning it helps.
If you want to try to bench-test it, you'd need to push the valve closed by hand somehow, maybe a pencil or something, and then see if the motor tries to resist you when you activate it.
Under the advanced menu, there is an idle valve test section. Turn the testing on, Enter 0 for "home" and I'd start with 50 for "iac steps".
Then, when "move to home position" is "home", you should be able to close the valve with little resistance. Change that to "run" and you should feel the valve try to work against you.
I will see if that cl idle comes on when I go to my shop the car runs great just have to warm it up before it will idle when its warm it idles at 850/900 rpm 14.8 to 15.0 afr if its any richer it will serge it run and drives. great if I can get the iac working that will help my cold start.u with the boost at 16 it makes about 700hp it a blast to drive
So that tells us the criteria for closed loop idle control is being met which is good. If you haven't done it already you should test resistance between the IAC plug on the white wire with pin 30 on the megasquirt harness, just to validate that you actually have a circuit there. You should also test the IAC plug on the red wire for +12v against battery ground (not tested against the white wire).
Then capture a log of the car idling, while the cl idle is on, but not working the way you want it to. Then email the log file, and your msq file, to websales@diyautotune.com along with a link to this thread and they will be able to help figure out what isn't working as desired.
If you like, send me a PM with your email address and I will email you too so you can reply with those files attached and I'll also take a look at it.
I have my car running so good with out it im not even going to mess with it we did the same thing to my guys car his runs great with out it to. all we do is hold it at 1200 rpm for maybe 30 secs and then it will idle on its own
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